壹The Valley山谷

A valley enclosed by mountains

The camp lies on the road to Pudacuo, in a valley closed in by mountains on three sides: forest behind, pasture in front, and on the fourth side the road you came in by.

Renan Valley · 3,274 m a.s.l. · A corner of the grounds, yaks grazing on the slope

The first time I came into Renan Valley I was driving the road to Pudacuo, further and further into the mountains. At a bend the whole valley opened at once: mountains on three sides, pasture below, the Qudzhen river winding through the middle, and Dabao Temple on the slope, quieter than the village.

What I wanted was simple: somewhere in the mountains, a long way from any city, wild outside but without hardship indoors. People will travel far and put up with a little discomfort for a view; but if they sleep badly and cannot get a hot shower, the view is spoiled. So the tents keep the shape Tibetan nomads have lived in for centuries, and inside there is underfloor heating, hot water, a private bathroom and medical oxygen.

The first tent went up in 2016. In 2018 we rebuilt, and the timber-frame tents and standalone tent houses went up one by one. In 2020 a winner of the IDA International Design Award designed our terrace tent; television crews from Go Fighting! and others have filmed here since.

Living in the valley, I have slowly stopped setting targets. The weather, the seasons and the guests are different every day; all I can do is live today well. Most of our neighbours are Tibetan families. I often see them walking the prayer circuit in the morning and bringing the cattle home at dusk, never in a hurry. That is only what I have seen, and I may be wrong, but it is why I think this valley is worth living in slowly.

I hope the people who come here sleep well, wake early, and stand for a while at sunrise with something hot to drink. The valley will tell you the rest.

— Wang Tianxiao

Days on the grounds

There are only a few things to do here, and each is done slowly.

Afternoon · the garden

Incense and tea in the garden

Light a stick of incense in the garden, brew a pot of tea, and watch the clouds cross the mountain opposite.

Afternoon

Afternoon tea on the terrace

Tea and cakes laid out on the terrace. As the sun lowers, the whole valley is in front of you.

An open-air film by the fire (illustration)

After dark

Open-air cinema

A screen on the meadow, a blanket round your shoulders, a film under the stars.

Evening

Bonfire supper

A fire on the meadow and supper beside it, faces warm in its light.

Around the new moon

Stargazing

No city glow here: the Milky Way slants right across the tent roofs.

By the camp

The little lake

There is a small lake by the camp, misty in the morning, holding the mountains in the evening.

Early morning

The old trees

The old trees on the meadow, at their best in the mist.

Afternoon

The craft room

A room of black pottery, incense and thangkas. On the days a craftsperson comes by, you can sit down and make something with them.

The valley

Mountains on three sides

From the terrace: a ridge to the left, a ridge to the right, forest behind, and straight ahead the pasture and the far snow peaks. The mountains keep out the wind and the noise of towns; sit down, and there is only the valley.

Mist

A frosty morning

Autumn and winter mornings often bring mist and frost on the grass; the cabins are only shadows. When the sun comes up, the mist lifts a little at a time.

Snow

The valley in winter

After November snow often falls overnight. Open the door in the morning and the cabins, fences and woods have all turned white; the only sound is your footsteps.

Flowers

The summer meadow

In summer the meadow is full of flowers, and horses and yaks wander through. A village family can take you out riding.

Shaping black clay with a craftsman (illustration)

The craft room

An afternoon, one thing made

Craftspeople from the village and nearby sometimes come to the camp. Sit at the long table and shape a small black clay pot under an old master’s eye, hands covered in clay, the pasture outside the window. What you make is yours to keep.

An open-air film after dark (illustration)

Night

A film on the meadow

When night falls a screen goes up on the meadow, with lanterns and a small fire. Wrap yourself in a blanket; halfway through the film, look up and there are the stars.

The land around

Beyond the camp lie pasture and forest. Herds, hay racks and chimney smoke are how every day looks here.

Seasons

Spring

April — May

Rhododendrons along the slopes, the meadow just turning green, the wind still cold.

Summer

June — August

The rainy season: greenest grass, most flowers, wild mushrooms in the woods. Afternoon rain, then rainbows.

Autumn

September — October

The bluest skies; barley turns gold and the forest changes colour layer by layer. The clearest stars of the year.

Winter

November — March

Snow falls and the valley goes very quiet. Hotpot by the fire, a heated bed waiting.

At the camp

DiningMatsutake and morel chicken hotpot, sour-broth yak hotpot and dishes from the wok; breakfast any time between 8:00 and 12:00.
AltitudeEvery room has medical oxygen, underfloor heating, humidifier and electric blanket.
Tea · books · filmsTea room, library, home cinema, games room and karaoke for rainy days.
OutdoorsRiding, walking, picnics and barbecue, picking from the garden, animals to meet.
ChildrenPlay area and swing; children’s toiletries, toys and books.
TransfersStation / airport pick-up (charged); drop-off ¥100 per car; shuttle ¥300 per car to Dukezong old town, Napa Lake, Songzanlin Monastery, Shika Snow Mountain, Balagezong and more.
ParkingFree parking and free valet.
GatheringsA function room for small meetings, weddings and private bookings.
宠物欢迎带宠物入住，有给它们洗澡的地方和测血氧的仪器。

Timeline

2016The first tent goes up in Renan Valley; Yesu welcomes its first guests.
2018The camp is rebuilt: timber-frame tents and standalone tent houses.
2020The terrace tent by an IDA Design Award winner is completed.
TodaySix kinds of room, eleven in all, a dining room and a tea room. The valley unchanged.